Capella Telluride's Onyx: Less is more
One of the kitchens Kolofon presides over is Capella's signature restaurant, Onyx, where Telluride Inside... and Out dined last week. Where Gilbert's virtuosic preparations shouted "Look at me," Kolofon's dishes beg to be discovered like a pretty librarian in glasses. When the glasses come off, the effect is magnetic. You just may not have seen it coming. Chef Gabriel's credo: high quality ingredients don't require much improvement in order to taste good.